It's day 23 of my hike, and I'm taking a zero day (no miles hiked). Basically, it's a day off to relax, refresh and handle any matters that need my attention -- like paying the final electrical bill from my place in Barnwell.
Hot Springs has a population of under 1,000. The town is peaceful with a few good restaurants and an outfitter store where hikers can re-supply and get whatever they need. Since the AT runs right through town, the area caters to hikers.
I'm staying at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn. It's a large, 19th century farmhouse that's been a hiker hostel for decades. The house is filled with antiques, and guests have their own private room ($20 per night for hikers). It has the exact feel you'd expect from an old home: the wood floor creaks with each step you take and the old furniture gives the place a relaxed, cozy atmosphere.
Last night, I ate and drank at the Spring Creek Tavern in town with a several other hikers -- with trail names like Pockets, Squirrel, Chef, Wing It, Paperboy, Cowboy and Sunshine.
All the thru hikers I've met so far seem to be enjoying themselves and each has a unique story to share.
Paperboy, for example, is a journalist from Minnesota. He rode is bicycle from Minnesota to Georgia before starting his hike.
Cowboy just graduated from Amherst College in Massachusetts. The kid normally hikes 20-plus miles a day, which is impressive to say the least. He hiked 33 miles the day he arrived in Hot Springs. He said he eats 12 Snickers bars a day on the trail.
Pockets and Sunshine are two girls who met early -- the first day I think -- in their hike. They hiked several days together before being separated but reunited in Hot Springs. In the hiker log books at shelters along the trail the phrase "Pockets full of Sunshine" is a common note one of them will write.
If you made it to Hot Springs that means you survived Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail travels through the park for about 75 miles. Hikers stay above 6,000 feet for much of the time and reach the highest point on the entire AT while inside the park. It's Clingmans Dome at 6,643 feet.
One morning while in the Smokies, it hailed and snowed off and on for a few hours. The wind on exposed cliffs bites at your skin. It may be the month of May, but temperatures are often in the 30s and below in the Smokies. It takes hikers around six days to get through the park.
As for the Lost Boys -- David, Tobias and Daniel -- The group broke up before the Smokies as Daniel pushed ahead. He must be about three days ahead of us now.
David moved real fast through the Smokies -- about five days total -- so he could be reunited with his dog, Stitch, as fast as possible. No dogs are allowed in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, so David had to pay $350 for someone to take care of Stitch and deliver her back to him at the northern end of the park.
Tobias was about a day ahead of me on the trail in the Smokies. I got through on Saturday and arrived in Hot Springs Monday afternoon. David, who hiked slowly after finishing the Smokies, and Tobias -- took a zero day Monday -- were here taking it easy when I arrived. David moved on last night and Tobias left this morning.
The most miles I've hiked in a day is 24, which was on Saturday. In. my opinion, it's best to break camp as early as you can in the morning and get on the trail. Hiking is easier in the morning hours with cooler temperatures. If I get on the trail before 7:30 a.m., I can do around 18 miles before 4 p.m. That allows for plenty of time to relax in the late afternoon.
The most talked about spot on the trail the last couple of days has been Max Patch, Tennessee. It's a bald, grassy summit at 4,600 feet. It offers a spectacular 360 degree view and hikers stop for a while to enjoy the moment.
I've been doing a poor job updating this blog so I'll try to do better in the coming weeks. As for the rest of my zero day, I'll be doing laundry, reading, eating and enjoying the beautiful weather here in Hot Springs.
- Hova
Main road through Hot Springs
Enjoyed your post. We met Paperboy and Squirrel at a shelter two days ago while hiking/camping with a group of Boy Scouts and then ran into them again yesterday in Damascus. It was awesome for the boys to get to meet and talk to them. Good luck on your journey.
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