Good food, good people

I've been on the AT for four weeks, and it's going great. I'll be hitting 400 miles today and crossing into Virginia - state number four - in the coming days.

In the past week I've seen my second bear and a couple of deer. The bear was cruising down the mountain side and crossed the trail about 30 feet in front of me. It didn't stop to look at me, just flew by into the woods down the mountain.

I stayed at Uncle Johnny's hostel in Erwin, Tenn., Saturday night. It was a relaxing place by the river. A hiker, Bear, who is from Maine and in a band, rocked some tunes by the campfire on his mandolin while Chef kept the beat with his hand slapping his leg.

I left Johnny's Saturday afternoon after breakfast at Huddle House and lunch at a pizza buffet. I only hiked nine miles and camped at a gap with some other hikers.

I've had some great views from atop several bald summits the past couple of weeks. The weather has been mostly clear so far on my hike - I've hiked in the rain just two or three times so far.

I caught up to David and Stitch - now known as Starky and Hitch - Tuesday night at Mountain Harbour hostel near Roan Mt., Tenn. I had a great breakfast this morning. It included eggs, ham, pancakes, fruit, biscuits and much more. The staff at the hostel gets up at 5 a.m. to prepare the meal.

Getting a late start on the trail today, but the sun is shining and I'm feeling great.

- Hova

As the trail turns

I'm sitting in the library in Hot Springs, N.C., writing this post -- the AT runs right down the main road in this small, mountain community at the 273 mile mark on the trail.

It's day 23 of my hike, and I'm taking a zero day (no miles hiked). Basically, it's a day off to relax, refresh and handle any matters that need my attention -- like paying the final electrical bill from my place in Barnwell.

Hot Springs has a population of under 1,000. The town is peaceful with a few good restaurants and an outfitter store where hikers can re-supply and get whatever they need. Since the AT runs right through town, the area caters to hikers.

I'm staying at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn. It's a large, 19th century farmhouse that's been a hiker hostel for decades. The house is filled with antiques, and guests have their own private room ($20 per night for hikers). It has the exact feel you'd expect from an old home: the wood floor creaks with each step you take and the old furniture gives the place a relaxed, cozy atmosphere.

Last night, I ate and drank at the Spring Creek Tavern in town with a several other hikers -- with trail names like Pockets, Squirrel, Chef, Wing It, Paperboy, Cowboy and Sunshine.

All the thru hikers I've met so far seem to be enjoying themselves and each has a unique story to share.

Paperboy, for example, is a journalist from Minnesota. He rode is bicycle from Minnesota to Georgia before starting his hike.

Cowboy just graduated from Amherst College in Massachusetts. The kid normally hikes 20-plus miles a day, which is impressive to say the least. He hiked 33 miles the day he arrived in Hot Springs. He said he eats 12 Snickers bars a day on the trail.

Pockets and Sunshine are two girls who met early -- the first day I think -- in their hike. They hiked several days together before being separated but reunited in Hot Springs. In the hiker log books at shelters along the trail the phrase "Pockets full of Sunshine" is a common note one of them will write.

If you made it to Hot Springs that means you survived Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail travels through the park for about 75 miles. Hikers stay above 6,000 feet for much of the time and reach the highest point on the entire AT while inside the park. It's Clingmans Dome at 6,643 feet.

One morning while in the Smokies, it hailed and snowed off and on for a few hours. The wind on exposed cliffs bites at your skin. It may be the month of May, but temperatures are often in the 30s and below in the Smokies. It takes hikers around six days to get through the park.

As for the Lost Boys -- David, Tobias and Daniel -- The group broke up before the Smokies as Daniel pushed ahead. He must be about three days ahead of us now.

David moved real fast through the Smokies -- about five days total -- so he could be reunited with his dog, Stitch, as fast as possible. No dogs are allowed in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, so David had to pay $350 for someone to take care of Stitch and deliver her back to him at the northern end of the park.

Tobias was about a day ahead of me on the trail in the Smokies. I got through on Saturday and arrived in Hot Springs Monday afternoon. David, who hiked slowly after finishing the Smokies, and Tobias -- took a zero day Monday -- were here taking it easy when I arrived. David moved on last night and Tobias left this morning.

The most miles I've hiked in a day is 24, which was on Saturday. In. my opinion, it's best to break camp as early as you can in the morning and get on the trail. Hiking is easier in the morning hours with cooler temperatures. If I get on the trail before 7:30 a.m., I can do around 18 miles before 4 p.m. That allows for plenty of time to relax in the late afternoon.

The most talked about spot on the trail the last couple of days has been Max Patch, Tennessee. It's a bald, grassy summit at 4,600 feet. It offers a spectacular 360 degree view and hikers stop for a while to enjoy the moment.

I've been doing a poor job updating this blog so I'll try to do better in the coming weeks. As for the rest of my zero day, I'll be doing laundry, reading, eating and enjoying the beautiful weather here in Hot Springs.


- Hova

Main road through Hot Springs

Up and down: A way of life

Total miles thru May 7: 120

I stayed in a hiker hostel in Franklin, N.C., Tuesday night. Ate at a nice little deli in town and then had a few drinks at a lounge inside a hiker outfitter store. The lost boys - which is how I refer to David, Daniel and Tobias - were there too.

Hung out in the hostel eating Dominos and watching TV before calling it a night. We got a free ride back to the trail from Ron Haven Wednesday morning. He owns the hostel we stayed in and also a couple of motels in the area. He is a former thru hiker and a great guy who is always willing to help out hikers.

I hiked just 11 miles Wednesday. The hike consisted mostly of a tough, uphill climb. I'm staying at Wayah Bald Shelter tonight, but sleeping in my tent so I can see the stars. David is staying here too, but Daniel and Tobias moved on to the next shelter about five miles farther down the trail.

A girl from Australia is at the shelter too - talk about a long trip just to take a walk!

- Hova

Raven Rock

Week one

I've been on the Appalachian Trail for one week and have gone 81 miles.

Crossed into North Carolina today (Sunday) after staying in the mountain town of Hiwassee yesterday. I went to McDonalds, and then ate my food while walking to a local restaurant with a buffet where David, Tobias (poptart) and Daniel were. So I was pretty full by the time I was done eating there. We all crashed in a local motel ... Stitch too.

The first week went well, and I'm completely enjoying myself. There have been some tough climbs, but I've handled them. We are currently above 4,000 feet and will continue to slowly climb as we head toward Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Tonight we are staying at muskrat creek shelter (4,580). Caught the tail end of a beautiful sunset and then watched as the sky darkened and the stars came out. I was able to see the lights from Hiawassee too.

The beauty out here is amazing and makes each painful step well worth it.

- Hova