Bear cubs, food bags and rocks

Miles hiked thru June 1 (35 days on the trail): 467

After a short hike Friday, about 11 miles, I decided to camp at a nice spot by Lake Watauga, which was formed by a dam, in eastern Tennessee. The night was calm and mostly quiet, the silence interrupted only by the sound of boats on the water and the waves reaching the shore. I slept well in my tent and awoke around 6 a.m.

While debating in my head about whether to get up or go back to sleep, I heard something scampering through the bushes nearby. I glanced out the mesh window in my tent and saw a flash of black fur buzz by. "Oh shit," I thought. I listened for a second and heard a scraping sound. I knew it was a bear up in the tree that my food bag was hanging from -- about 12 feet from my tent.

I paused for a second, remembering the stories hikers had been sharing about a mother bear and her three cubs who have recently been "terrorizing" hikers at shelters in the area, stealing their food.

"I hope it's just the cubs," I thought to myself before getting out of the tent to try and save my food.

I got out of the tent and turned around to see a bear cub, probably around 80 pounds, up about 11 feet in the tree swiping at my bag, which was just far enough away from the tree trunk so that the furry thief couldn't get a grip on it.

On the ground, waiting anxiously, was another cub about the same size as its sibling.

I looked around and didn't see mama bear anywhere. I shouted at the bears, "Get out of here!" But they just looked at me -- clearly this wasn't their first heist and they weren't scared of humans.

The campsite was littered with stones and rocks, so I picked one up, took aim, and pelted the bear in the tree. It immediately dropped down and ran over a mound. I threw a rock at the bear on the ground and it ran away up the mountainside before stopping and facing me.

The other bear came back over the mound, took some rock fire and scattered up the mountain next to its partner in crime. There they both watched and waited for my next move.

"Stupid bears," I said as I went over to the tree to take down my bag, keeping an eye on the cubs about 70 feet away.

I sat down on a log and looked up at the bears, my food bag on the ground in front of me. One of the bears decided to make a valiant attempt at the bag now that it was on the ground. It ran down and stopped about ten foot short of me. I grabbed a 5-pound rock and threw it just to the side of the fuzzball, not wanting to seriously hurt the little guy. The cub scampered back, and two or three more stone tosses put it back up on the hillside.

I lobbed some big rocks in the general area around the bears. They finally got the point and ran up the mountainside, disappearing into the woods. The whole episode lasted about five minutes.

Wanting to leave the area before mama bear showed up to see who was bullying her kids, I took down my tent, packed up my backpack and headed out. I stopped about a half-mile down the trail on a road that crosses over the dam and ate breakfast while taking in the view of the lake with the mountains in the background.

Better me eating my food than the bears, I thought.

- Hova


Note: The sad thing about the bears stealing food is that they will probably end up being caught and "destroyed." The best scenario is they are relocated. The lake is near a town and is frequented by locals and tourists who camp and stay at the shelter by the lake. So there is always plenty of trash and food left around (people do a poor job of cleaning up after themselves). The bears become accustomed to going to the shelters and campsites to find easy pickings, and once they realize there is no threat from humans they will steal food while the helpless people look on.

Whenever you go camping, don't intentionally feed bears and don't leave food and trash behind. "Pack it in, pack it out." That's the motto.

Good food, good people

I've been on the AT for four weeks, and it's going great. I'll be hitting 400 miles today and crossing into Virginia - state number four - in the coming days.

In the past week I've seen my second bear and a couple of deer. The bear was cruising down the mountain side and crossed the trail about 30 feet in front of me. It didn't stop to look at me, just flew by into the woods down the mountain.

I stayed at Uncle Johnny's hostel in Erwin, Tenn., Saturday night. It was a relaxing place by the river. A hiker, Bear, who is from Maine and in a band, rocked some tunes by the campfire on his mandolin while Chef kept the beat with his hand slapping his leg.

I left Johnny's Saturday afternoon after breakfast at Huddle House and lunch at a pizza buffet. I only hiked nine miles and camped at a gap with some other hikers.

I've had some great views from atop several bald summits the past couple of weeks. The weather has been mostly clear so far on my hike - I've hiked in the rain just two or three times so far.

I caught up to David and Stitch - now known as Starky and Hitch - Tuesday night at Mountain Harbour hostel near Roan Mt., Tenn. I had a great breakfast this morning. It included eggs, ham, pancakes, fruit, biscuits and much more. The staff at the hostel gets up at 5 a.m. to prepare the meal.

Getting a late start on the trail today, but the sun is shining and I'm feeling great.

- Hova

As the trail turns

I'm sitting in the library in Hot Springs, N.C., writing this post -- the AT runs right down the main road in this small, mountain community at the 273 mile mark on the trail.

It's day 23 of my hike, and I'm taking a zero day (no miles hiked). Basically, it's a day off to relax, refresh and handle any matters that need my attention -- like paying the final electrical bill from my place in Barnwell.

Hot Springs has a population of under 1,000. The town is peaceful with a few good restaurants and an outfitter store where hikers can re-supply and get whatever they need. Since the AT runs right through town, the area caters to hikers.

I'm staying at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn. It's a large, 19th century farmhouse that's been a hiker hostel for decades. The house is filled with antiques, and guests have their own private room ($20 per night for hikers). It has the exact feel you'd expect from an old home: the wood floor creaks with each step you take and the old furniture gives the place a relaxed, cozy atmosphere.

Last night, I ate and drank at the Spring Creek Tavern in town with a several other hikers -- with trail names like Pockets, Squirrel, Chef, Wing It, Paperboy, Cowboy and Sunshine.

All the thru hikers I've met so far seem to be enjoying themselves and each has a unique story to share.

Paperboy, for example, is a journalist from Minnesota. He rode is bicycle from Minnesota to Georgia before starting his hike.

Cowboy just graduated from Amherst College in Massachusetts. The kid normally hikes 20-plus miles a day, which is impressive to say the least. He hiked 33 miles the day he arrived in Hot Springs. He said he eats 12 Snickers bars a day on the trail.

Pockets and Sunshine are two girls who met early -- the first day I think -- in their hike. They hiked several days together before being separated but reunited in Hot Springs. In the hiker log books at shelters along the trail the phrase "Pockets full of Sunshine" is a common note one of them will write.

If you made it to Hot Springs that means you survived Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail travels through the park for about 75 miles. Hikers stay above 6,000 feet for much of the time and reach the highest point on the entire AT while inside the park. It's Clingmans Dome at 6,643 feet.

One morning while in the Smokies, it hailed and snowed off and on for a few hours. The wind on exposed cliffs bites at your skin. It may be the month of May, but temperatures are often in the 30s and below in the Smokies. It takes hikers around six days to get through the park.

As for the Lost Boys -- David, Tobias and Daniel -- The group broke up before the Smokies as Daniel pushed ahead. He must be about three days ahead of us now.

David moved real fast through the Smokies -- about five days total -- so he could be reunited with his dog, Stitch, as fast as possible. No dogs are allowed in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, so David had to pay $350 for someone to take care of Stitch and deliver her back to him at the northern end of the park.

Tobias was about a day ahead of me on the trail in the Smokies. I got through on Saturday and arrived in Hot Springs Monday afternoon. David, who hiked slowly after finishing the Smokies, and Tobias -- took a zero day Monday -- were here taking it easy when I arrived. David moved on last night and Tobias left this morning.

The most miles I've hiked in a day is 24, which was on Saturday. In. my opinion, it's best to break camp as early as you can in the morning and get on the trail. Hiking is easier in the morning hours with cooler temperatures. If I get on the trail before 7:30 a.m., I can do around 18 miles before 4 p.m. That allows for plenty of time to relax in the late afternoon.

The most talked about spot on the trail the last couple of days has been Max Patch, Tennessee. It's a bald, grassy summit at 4,600 feet. It offers a spectacular 360 degree view and hikers stop for a while to enjoy the moment.

I've been doing a poor job updating this blog so I'll try to do better in the coming weeks. As for the rest of my zero day, I'll be doing laundry, reading, eating and enjoying the beautiful weather here in Hot Springs.


- Hova

Main road through Hot Springs

Up and down: A way of life

Total miles thru May 7: 120

I stayed in a hiker hostel in Franklin, N.C., Tuesday night. Ate at a nice little deli in town and then had a few drinks at a lounge inside a hiker outfitter store. The lost boys - which is how I refer to David, Daniel and Tobias - were there too.

Hung out in the hostel eating Dominos and watching TV before calling it a night. We got a free ride back to the trail from Ron Haven Wednesday morning. He owns the hostel we stayed in and also a couple of motels in the area. He is a former thru hiker and a great guy who is always willing to help out hikers.

I hiked just 11 miles Wednesday. The hike consisted mostly of a tough, uphill climb. I'm staying at Wayah Bald Shelter tonight, but sleeping in my tent so I can see the stars. David is staying here too, but Daniel and Tobias moved on to the next shelter about five miles farther down the trail.

A girl from Australia is at the shelter too - talk about a long trip just to take a walk!

- Hova

Raven Rock

Week one

I've been on the Appalachian Trail for one week and have gone 81 miles.

Crossed into North Carolina today (Sunday) after staying in the mountain town of Hiwassee yesterday. I went to McDonalds, and then ate my food while walking to a local restaurant with a buffet where David, Tobias (poptart) and Daniel were. So I was pretty full by the time I was done eating there. We all crashed in a local motel ... Stitch too.

The first week went well, and I'm completely enjoying myself. There have been some tough climbs, but I've handled them. We are currently above 4,000 feet and will continue to slowly climb as we head toward Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Tonight we are staying at muskrat creek shelter (4,580). Caught the tail end of a beautiful sunset and then watched as the sky darkened and the stars came out. I was able to see the lights from Hiawassee too.

The beauty out here is amazing and makes each painful step well worth it.

- Hova

Into the hills

total miles through April 29: 21

I was the first one to break camp at hawk mountain shelter Tuesday morning around 8. I didn't feel like doing breakfast.

Went about a mile when it started to rain. Stopped to put on my rain gear and pack cover. While putting on my gear, Daniel, from Sweden, and Tobias, from Germany, caught up with me.

Tobias, 25, just finished his masters in electrical engineering, and Daniel, 20, was working at a hospital.

They didn't know each other before the hike, but flew on the same flight from Frankfurt To Atlanta and stayed at the same hostel before setting out.

I hiked alone most of the morning, with David and Tobias catching me when I'd stop for a rest.

Around lunchtime, another David and his dog, Stitch, caught me. They were also at the shelter the night before. I'd soon learn how quickly the pair move on the trail.

We stopped at Gooch Shelter for lunch. Some hikers who'd stayed there the previous night were still there. They said, "We're going as far as we can."

I took off, but David stayed behind, concerned about a possible limp Stitch had.

I made it to Woody Gap at about 5:30 p.m. It's a highway crossing with picnic tables and a bathroom. Sat down to check the weather since I had a cell signal. After a few minutes Daniel and Tobias showed up, and we walked a little ways before picking a campsite just off the trail.

In anticipation of bad weather, we started to set up our tents. After just a few minutes, David and Stitch came strolling up. Stitch seemed to be fine. We were later joined by a married couple from Michigan.

Tents up and dinner ready, David hiked a little ways up the trail to check a view from a popular lookout point, Preachers Rock. He came back and said it was awesome, so we all went up to see. It was a spectacular view.

Back at camp, we made a fire and sat around for a while before heading to bed. The rain eventually arrived, but it wasn't bad and I slept through it.

view from preachers rock

S

Stitch

First day

Distance: 8.2 miles

Hit the road from Barnwell to my starting point in northern Georgia at about 8 a.m., Monday. My friend, Nick, came through huge and gave me a ride on his day off. It's a five-hour trip and there was a 10-mile climb up a dirt, mountain road to Big Stamp Gap.

From the gap, I had to hike "south" to get to the starting point at the top of Springer Mountain and then turn around and retrace my steps to start my trip.

I started shortly after 3 p.m., after meeting Teacher and Snackpack at the top of Springer. The grandma, Teacher, and her grandson, Snackpack, are from Rhode Island and are traveling along the trail, meeting hikers and hearing their stories as part of a home-school project for Snackpack. 

Those are their trail names btw. Hikers usually start with a trail name they choose or get labeled with one by other hikers.

Mine is Hova for now. If you know me, you know why.

Headed down springer and the hiking was easy going at first. The trail was smooth, flat and wide. I rolled into Hawk Mountain Shelter a little after 7 p.m. About a dozen hikers, and one dog, were there.

We all had to cram into the shelter - which has two levels and the lower level has two tiers - because bad weather was on the way. Since I was the last one to arrive for the night and everyone else had their spots picked out, I had to sleep on the lower tier of the first level next to the shelter opening.

When the storm hit around 10:30, it was loud and windy. Every few minutes a gust of wind would blow up the tarp stretched across the shelter opening and a blast of cold air and some rain would sweep through the shelter. It wasn't too bad though, and i got some decent sleep.

Good first day, on to the next one.

By the fire at hawk mountain shelter